[Blabber] time lapse help

Jeff McCrum mccrum at hotmail.com
Mon Apr 15 01:29:27 UTC 2013


I'm going to agree with Marcus at this point, running out to a laptop with EOS Utility is going to allow you to skip the intervalometer (built in), card size (it'll just record to the hard drive), and allow you to check everything at the same time.  Every time you turn power off to the intervalometer it's going to need reprogramming.  Blah.
And then Ben has got great ideas regarding the elements, especially that silica gel.  Make sure you do all the polycarbonate cementing a few days prior to putting the camera in, some of that stuff can off-gas and possibly do nasty things to the camera.  I'd actually suggest a weep hole in the bottom to let moisture out.  It's going to get in with expansion and contraction no matter what you do, so give it a way to get out if you can.
I'd recommend having the enclosure on a board that you can move if you need to and screw down when you find the right location.  That way you can waterproof everything, get it all mounted and then go secure it to your porch.  That way, if you need to move it at all later you don't have to open it all up to do so.
Do you mind my asking how often you're going to shoot?  10 shots an hour over five days a week for three months is 7,200 frames.  At 24 fps you're still looking at five minutes of movie, which can feel a little long from a static point of view.

> From: ben.sugimori at gmail.com
> Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 15:43:51 -0400
> To: blabber at list.hackmanhattan.com
> Subject: Re: [Blabber] time lapse help
> 
> Regarding Weatherproofing:
> 
> A surplus Ammo Storage Can may be a good substitute for the black container. They're made to withstand the elements, and some are submersible. Just make sure it's US-issue, and real, otherwise it could be junk. A .50 Cal box would probably have enough room for your camera.
> 
> You may want to paint it silver or white, to keep it from getting cooked by the sun. Better yet, a separate, additional rounded aluminum shade (like on a security camera enclosure) would protect it from the elements.
> 
> Polycarbonate, stuck to the box with Weld-On SciGrip Acrylic Cement would make a weatherproof, optically-clear window. I'd say 1/4" thick would be good. Acrylics (plexiglas) can be pretty delicate, especially when glued, subjected to extreme temperatures, etc.
> Be careful not to scratch either, though - they scratch easily. 
> 
> Spaz Stix sells a clear coat paint (aerosol or airbrush), which could protect the window from scratches. You'll want to clean it with a lint-free cloth, with Isopropyl Alcohol, as close to 100% concentration as you can find. I found 90% in Walgreens once.
> 
> You'll want to pack the box with as much desiccant as possible. Silica Gel is probably a good choice. Otherwise, the window could fog. Any anti-fog stuff you may have, you may want to test on a spare piece of the window material, before applying it to the final pane.
> 
> Plumber's epoxy (the toothpaste-in-wax-looking stuff that you cut and knead) could seal off the power supply hole, as well as shape the box into a more mountable enclosure.
> 
> BenS
> 
> On Apr 14, 2013, at 0:42, Marcus Cooper <nyccooper at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> > If you have a spare laptop (netbook maybe) you could run the camera
> > via USB and have the images save directly to the laptop (or hard drive
> > attached). It would be pretty simple to write a basic script to upload
> > those images to a server, or email them every day, or something of the
> > sort. That would allow you to remotely monitor the photos, work with
> > the images before the project is done, and also you could Remote
> > Desktop control that laptop and use the canon utility to adjust
> > aperture and iso and whatever you need to adjust on the camera without
> > having to open the inclosure.
> > 
> > -Marcus
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > 
> > On Apr 14, 2013, at 12:14 AM, Jim E Galvin <jim at galvinized.com> wrote:
> > 
> >> I am working on a small project and I could use some help. I want to set up a time-lapse camera to capture the destruction of two homes and then the construction of 3 condo buildings. It is a clear view from my back deck.
> >> 
> >> The camera is a Canon 10D, with a 32Gig card, an intervalometer and external power supply. I plan to put the power supply on a timer so it records from 7am to 7pm. All of the components will live inside the enclosure.
> >> 
> >> The enclosure I picked up at Lowes Depot, It's just a black storage box I plan to cut a hole in and then put a plexiglass window in for the lens to see out.
> >> 
> >> questions:
> >> Do you think I have to be concerned about heat, cold, or moisture inside? What do you suggest I do to fix that, if anything? I think I can find a shady spot if needed.
> >> 
> >> I would like a  way to monitor that the camera is working right, but without touching the enclosure. Ideally I would like to do this remotely but I would need a way to access the usb of the camera over my local net work, like a usb over ip device. Most seem to only work for printers.
> >> Raspberry Pi might be one possibility.
> >> 
> >> I figure the destruction will take a day or 2 at most. The real challenge having everything go smoothly while they build. I am thinking it will need to run for 6 to 8 months.
> >> Any thoughts?
> >> 
> >> Thanks,
> >> Jim
> >> 
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