[Blabber] using the mini mill

Ben Solwitz notalamer at gmail.com
Sat Mar 10 21:03:12 EST 2012


Interesting, thanks for the information guys. I saw this sort of thing on
the site of a big glass mold supplier, but they don't give a lot of details
as to their construction. I doubt they are doing any kind of special heat
treatment but who knows. I have been talking to some other glass fusing
people and someone suggested that 1/16" should be thick enough, but he said
I should buy u channel instead of trying to slot a bunch of bar. I couldn't
find any u channel in the appropriate size so I bought 4"x6"x0.125"
rectangular tubing instead and plan to try cutting one of the sides off.
I've got a dremel, should be interesting trying to cut through 1/8" 304
with it. I'll definitely try to stop by some time soon.

Thanks,
Ben

On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 7:25 PM, Daniel Packer <dp at danielpacker.org> wrote:

> Hi Ben,
>
> If after the previous advice you still want to try milling steel,
> please stop by on a Tuesday night with an idea of what you want and a
> piece of stock and let's give it a try. Stainless is really hard to
> mill, and we may break an end mill or two, especially when cutting the
> 1/8" slots, but it'd be worth a shot. Cutting up the longer piece into
> shorter pieces should be straightforward. I'll give you an intro once
> you've signed our waiver. We don't do formal classes, but donations
> are always welcome.
>
> See you around and good luck with the project.
>
> -Daniel
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 8:20 AM, Peter Shenkin <shenkin at gmail.com> wrote:
> > It's questionable that thicker means it will warp less.
> >
> > Most steels, if they are to be subjected to heat, need to be machined to
> > final dimensions after being heat treated. There is a class of specialty
> > steels called maraging steels that do not.
> >
> > I think I'd start by taking a piece of whatever stock you are going to
> use
> > and try putting it  through a few temperature cycles before you do any
> > machining. See if you get any warping. If not, it's reasonable to machine
> > either a new or an old piece. If you do get warping, then, if the piece
> has
> > reached a constant warp after several cycles, you might consider
> machining
> > the warped piece to its final dimensions. (Since heat-treating tends to
> > harden steel, usually pieces are machined or cast to approximate
> dimensions
> > before heat treating, then re-machined to final dimensions after heat
> > treating.)
> >
> > Finally, if you can do a bit of research into what materials glass
> companies
> > use for molding glass and how they are treated, it might give you a leg
> up.
> >
> > -P.
> >
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