[Blabber] using the mini mill

Daniel Packer dp at danielpacker.org
Sat Mar 10 19:25:36 EST 2012


Hi Ben,

If after the previous advice you still want to try milling steel,
please stop by on a Tuesday night with an idea of what you want and a
piece of stock and let's give it a try. Stainless is really hard to
mill, and we may break an end mill or two, especially when cutting the
1/8" slots, but it'd be worth a shot. Cutting up the longer piece into
shorter pieces should be straightforward. I'll give you an intro once
you've signed our waiver. We don't do formal classes, but donations
are always welcome.

See you around and good luck with the project.

-Daniel


On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 8:20 AM, Peter Shenkin <shenkin at gmail.com> wrote:
> It's questionable that thicker means it will warp less.
>
> Most steels, if they are to be subjected to heat, need to be machined to
> final dimensions after being heat treated. There is a class of specialty
> steels called maraging steels that do not.
>
> I think I'd start by taking a piece of whatever stock you are going to use
> and try putting it  through a few temperature cycles before you do any
> machining. See if you get any warping. If not, it's reasonable to machine
> either a new or an old piece. If you do get warping, then, if the piece has
> reached a constant warp after several cycles, you might consider machining
> the warped piece to its final dimensions. (Since heat-treating tends to
> harden steel, usually pieces are machined or cast to approximate dimensions
> before heat treating, then re-machined to final dimensions after heat
> treating.)
>
> Finally, if you can do a bit of research into what materials glass companies
> use for molding glass and how they are treated, it might give you a leg up.
>
> -P.
>


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