[Blabber] Rov/sonar/metal detector
diveblends at gmail.com
Mon Aug 13 18:16:11 UTC 2012
Nice but we may be out of luck. When I spoke to the vendor they indicated
that a 4" would be the maximum for our little mill.
On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 1:52 PM, Norman Savitt <normansavitt at gmail.com>wrote:
> I have an old heavy duty Palmgren 8" Cross Slide Rotary Table I may be
> able to lend for this project, but we may need to modify the mill's base
> to get it to fit, as it is so large and heavy. I'll take a look at the mill
> tomorrow and will let you know if I think this can work.
> On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 12:58 PM, Chris Stratton <cs07024 at gmail.com>wrote:
>> On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 12:29 PM, Antonio <diveblends at gmail.com> wrote:
>> > 1) Cheap modded flashlights can also make good housings for motors. On
>> > another note if we want to shoot video/stills we will need some bright
>> > lights, most days it's quite dark with low viz.
>> That's a good idea, especially since they often have a fine-threaded
>> end cap, which is what I was puzzling over how to do without a
>> threading-capable lathe.
>> > 2) I had thought of parallel rotors too, if we get a rotary platform
>> for the
>> > mill we could build those without a lathe.
>> Unfortunately, affordable rotary platforms I've seen are not designed
>> to be rotated while cutting - instead, you position them then tighten
>> the clamping mechansim. That's due for both strength issues and not
>> having an anti-backlash rotating mechanism. If it's just about making
>> a short piece of aluminum round, I have a box full of sherline lathe
>> parts we can re-assemble, and if necessary mill riser blocks for. But
>> it needs workpieces pre-cut close to size, and cannot thread anything.
>> > 3) We could use threadlock instead of PVC glue, should make it easier to
>> > take apart.
>> If that works sounds good. I started to wonder about some kind of
>> wax. Maybe I should find the bag of polycaprolactone ("friendsly
>> plastic") beads and see if they stick to PVC.
>> > 4) A trick to make housings resist pressure better is to fill them in
>> > mineral oil. It's a bit of a mess to maintain but doable. Some the first
>> > dive computers used to be oil filled. Made it a pain to change the
>> > but was very hard to flood them.
>> That could also help with dishing of magnet drive separator seals,
>> though there's the load of spinning the motors in oil. I start to
>> wonder about deinozized water as a less messy solution, though any
>> contaminants on the boards would quickly make it conductive again, so
>> I don't know if it would be viable as a single-use filling.
>> > 5) We can decide if ballast is necessary once we have a first prototype
>> > at least the parts) We can do a buoyancy check and see how bad (or
>> good) it
>> > is.
>> Which raises the point that a vehicle which will fit in a large
>> rubbermade tub would be advantageous.
>> > 6) my idea for the 4 props for tilt and yaw is based on the fly by wire
>> > aircrafts. Once the sensor is properly trimmed I don't think it would
>> be to
>> > hard to code something that would, (in absence of input) keep the thing
>> > level (if we balance it properly). Once an input from a controller is
>> > received ( i.e. old xbox controller). that would override the autotrim
>> > for that selected axis.
>> > If you are at the space tomorrow we can start settling on some points.
>> Yes, I will be there.
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> Norman Savitt
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